Tutorials

🎓 How to Use Your Brushmancy Stamper

Welcome to the world of miniature stamping! Whether you're decorating your nails, resin bases, or hobby projects, here’s how to master your Brushmancy kit.

 


 

🧼 1. Preparing Your Stamper

Before your first stamp:

  • Wash the stamper head in warm, soapy water

  • Dry with a lint-free cloth or let it air dry

  • Prime the head by gently rolling it across clean plastic or paper
    (This removes factory residue and helps pickup)

⚠️ Do NOT clean the stamper with acetone. It will cloud or damage the silicone.


2. Preparing and Cleaning the Plates

  • Remove Protective Film: Peel off the blue plastic protective cover from your stamping plates before first use.

  • Clean the Plate With Acetone: Use a lint-free cotton pad soaked in 100% acetone to thoroughly clean your stamping plate and remove any oils, dust, or polish residue.

  • Remove Grease: Grease from the factory mold or your fingers will stop paint from sticking properly, so ensure plates are fully cleaned before stamping.


 


 

🧪 3. Practice First!

Don’t go straight for your miniatures.
Stamping takes a little practice — your first attempts will likely be messy.

Start by stamping onto:

  • Plastic card

  • Cardboard

  • Paper

This lets you refine your pressure, speed, and alignment before moving onto your model or nail.

🎨 Stamping is an art — take time to learn your tools, and your results will shine.

 


 

🎨 3. Stamping Technique

A. Paint
Apply a fairly thick layer of polish to the etched design on the plate.

B. Swipe
Gently scrape off the excess using a scraper or old plastic card.
Don’t press too hard — a light touch works best.

C. Roll
Be ready — paint dries very fast.
Immediately roll the stamper over the design with light, even pressure.

D. Tidy (Optional)
Remove any extra paint on the stamper using:

  • Sticky tape

  • The scraper edge

The paint stays wet longer on the stamper than on the plate, so don’t rush here.

E. Align
Look top-down through the stamper to position your design.
If you're using the double-ended stamper, remove the other end for better visibility.

F. Stamp
Roll the design gently onto your nail, model, or surface.

G. Clean 

Clean the plate with an acetone soaked lint free pad, ready for the next stamp

 


 

🖌 4. Using Different Paints

While your kit comes with core colors, there’s a world of options out there:

  • Look for nail varnishes labeled “Stamping Polish” — they’re thicker and more pigmented.

  • Some standard nail polishes can work, but:

    • Too thin and they won’t pick up well.

    • Too thick and they smudge or dry too fast.

Explore the nail polish aisle — there’s an incredible range of metallics, mattes, and glitters just waiting to be turned into tiny masterpieces.

 


 

🧽 5. Cleaning Your Tools

  • Stamping Plates:
    Clean with pure acetone and a lint free pad  — acetone won’t melt it.

  • Stampers:
    Clean only with soap and water. Never use acetone!

 


 

💡 Final Tips

  • Always test your setup before committing to a model or nail.

  • Stamp fast after swiping — speed makes a big difference.

  • Top coat your design once it’s dry for best results and protection.


🧩 6. Layering for Complex Designs

One of the coolest features of stamping is layering — placing multiple designs on top of each other to create rich, custom artwork.

Our stamping plates were designed with layering in mind, so many shapes align perfectly to build complex heraldic or sci-fi symbols.

How to Layer:

  1. Start with a base color or background pattern (e.g., stripes or checkers)

  2. Let it dry fully or seal with a thin layer of top coat

  3. Stamp the next image (e.g., animal emblem, icon, number) on top

  4. Repeat with additional detail stamps for a truly custom look

 


 

🛡️Stamping with the Heraldry Plate

Tips : Shield Designs & Layering Examples

Layering is especially powerful for heraldry. Here's an example using our Heraldry Plate:


🎨 Example: Classic Knight Shield

  1. Paint the base shield blue

  2. Stamp a red checkered field

  3. Add a white lion rampant on top

  4. Optional: Border the shield or add a black number

These Stamps on the right side of the board are suitable for fields (the background or base pattern) then the animals or crowns are placed ontop. 


🧵 Note: Avoid stamping directly onto flowing cloaks or high-curvature surfaces — sharp lines like hazard stripes can distort. Stick to flat armor plates, vehicle panels, and bases for best results.


 

Then finish with some Fleur de lis or flank by a halberd or sword for finishing touches

Use this same technique on shields or Standards or both to tie your army together.

🏰 Your imagination is the only limit — go full house sigil or invent your own order of knights.

 


 

Let me know if you want a graphic or image guide showing this step-by-step with the file you upload


🪖 Stamping with the US Army Plate

Our US Army stamping plate is inspired by the field markings used by real WW2 units, reimagined for nails, miniatures, and terrain.

This plate includes:

  • Playing card suits (♠ Spade, ♥ Heart, ♦ Diamond, ♣ Club)

  • Geometric shapes (circle, square, triangle, hexagon, shield, teardrop)

  • Stencil-style letters and numbers in both small and large sizes

  • Stars, stripes, and USA emblems

  • Infantry tools and iconic symbols like the wrench, sword, and lightning bolt

 


 

🪖 Layering Unit Markings

Each shape can act as a unit designation badge, just like real-life vehicle and helmet markings.


Example Marking:
Stamp a black circle base, then overlay a white “E2” to create an infantry badge.

Use big stencils for tanks or terrain, and smaller ones for soldiers or nails.



 


 

🔷 Shape Symbolism (WW2 Style)

These symbols were often used to indicate unit type or role:💡 These are inspired by real usage, but there was a lot of variety in the field — feel free to create your own hierarchy for fictional or hobby use!

🔰 US Army Icon Guide

Symbol

Emoji

Role / Use

Circle

Infantry or Headquarters

Square

◼️

Supply, Logistics, or Armor

Triangle

🔺

Engineering or Recon

Diamond

🔷

Medical or Special Operations

Heart

❤️

Support units or morale

Spade

♠️

Infantry (especially paratroopers)

Club

♣️

Mechanized or Vehicle-based unit

Teardrop

💧

Fuel or fluid markings

Star

General US Army emblem

 


 

🔠 Using Letters & Numbers

We’ve included stencil-style A–E and 1–5 in multiple sizes, so you can create:

  • Unit codes like C3, D4, etc.

  • Serial numbers or division names

  • Custom identifiers on helmets, crates, tanks, or nails

✍️ Tip: Let each layer dry before adding the next to keep the edges sharp.

🏛️ Stamping with the Roman Plate

Our Roman Plate is designed for hobbyists who love historical miniatures, legion banners, or simply want to add some classical flair to their work. Inspired by Roman legions, ancient symbols, and battlefield markings, this plate lets you create full military insignias — or striking shields and nails.

 


 

🔢 Unit Markings – Roman Style

Create authentic Roman labels using:

  • Roman numerals: I, II, III, IV, V, X, L, C, D, M

  • Lettering combinations: COH (Cohort), LEG (Legion), SPQR (Senatus Populusque Romanus)


🛡 Example: Stamp COH IV for "Cohort IV" on a shield or standard with a Bull stamp in black. 

You can mix and match sizes and fonts — ideal for:

  • Shields and Banners

  • Terrain plaques

  • Detailed nail tips and accent fingers

 


 

🔮 Astrological & Classic Symbols

The Roman Plate also includes:

  • Astrological symbols for use on standards, ritual objects, or mystic nails

  • Iconic Roman emblems like:

    • ✝️ Chi-Rho (PX) – early Christian legionaries

    • 🦅 Eagle – Roman military standard

    • ⚖️ Scales & Orbs – law and empire

    • ⚔️ Crossed Swords – military action

    • 🐺 Wolf & Twins – the founding of Rome

    • 🧠 Philosophical Faces & Laurels – wisdom and glory

 


 

🧠 Creative Uses

Use this plate for:

  • Roman-themed miniatures (works great with Modiphius kits!)

  • Ancient-fantasy conversions

  • Scroll work, parchment, or wizard accessories

🚀 Stamping with the Sci-Fi Plate

The 🧬 Sci-Fi Plate is perfect for detailing vehicles, terrain, infantry, and even high-tech nail designs. From grimdark warzones to sleek space stations, this plate gives you everything you need to add warning signs, labels, and military details.

 


 

⚠️ Hazard Stripes & Warnings

Use the included ⚠️ hazard stripes, ⬛ boxes, and ➡️ arrows to create detailed danger zones and access panels.

You’ll find:

  • ⚫ Thick & thin diagonal caution stripes

  • ⬆️ Directional arrows

  • ⬛ Boxes for overlays

  • 🆎 Text stamps, including:

    • CAUTION ⚠️

    • HIGH VOLTAGE

    • NO STEP 🚷

    • AMMO 💣

    • MISSILE 🚀

    • PLASMA, LASER, VENT, etc.

🎨 Pro Tip: Don’t have yellow stamping polish?
Stamp in white ⚪ and paint over with a yellow ink 💛 or Contrast Paint for a perfect hazard finish.

 


 

🧪 Symbols, Labels & Targets

The plate includes:

  • ☣️ Biohazard

  • ☢️ Radiation

  • 🔥 Flammable

  • 💀 Skull & crossbones

  • 🧪 Chemical symbols like D₂, O₂, CH₄

  • 🎯 Targeting reticles and radar grids

  • 📦 Ammo symbols, 🔧 wrenches, and ➕ plus signs

Use these for:

  • 🔋 Power nodes and energy weapons

  • 🚧 Marking crates, canisters, or terrain

  • 🧰 Tech-themed nail designs for cosplay or events

 


 

📚 Layering Text & Shapes

Combine base shapes with overlays to create complex signage:

🚧Hazard Stripes + "PLASMA" → Plasma storage

You can even stamp letters and numbers for vehicle ID tags or unit codes.

Brushmancer Nigel

My neighbor in 1983 introduced me to Dungeons & Dragons.  I was hooked.  I was only 11 years old.  I would go to my local game store called Aero Hobbies.  I would go in and just browse all the different games.  I tried everything.  Now there are divisions within gaming.  People play RPG's, board games, collectable card games and miniature games.  Back in the 80’s if you were a gamer that included all of these plus video games.  CCG games didn’t really happen till 1993 when Magic came out.

Then in Junior high when a friend of mine wanted me to join his new campaign of a new game called Warhammer Fantasy Roleplay.  I couldn’t believe how much cooler this was than D&D.  The next year a store called Games Workshop opened in Santa Monica.  I went in and they had glass cases filled with painted space marine armies.   I bought a Rogue Trader box of 30 marines for 30 bucks.  I built and painted my own army in a custom black and orange scheme.  I brought it back to the store where they had tables for people to play.  The guys in the store laughed at me for not having painted an army in a traditional scheme.  I never played a game with that army.

In college I was still playing a lot of games.  Then Magic the gathering came out.  Everyone in the gaming hobby was hooked.  It was hard to avoid it.  I played all throughout college. 

Then after college I came back home and my friend got me a job testing video games for a company called NovaLogic.  I built up some experience.  Then I switched to Treyarch where I became producer for Tony Hawk 2x.  It was a launch title for the original Xbox in 2001.  Making video games was a great place to be a gamer.  Many people would play traditional games after work.  So I almost always had a game group.

In 2001 I came to Thailand for a 2 week vacation.  My friend was going to Koh Samui.  He had friends who lived there and told me I should join them.  I came and had an amazing time.  I went back to work and the new game I was working on had a bunch of production issues.  Then in 2003, I got cut from my job and decided to have an extended break in Thailand. I stayed for 3 months.  I loved it.  That was it.  I moved to Thailand in October 2003.

Everything was great.  I made lots of friends.  I met my wife but I really never met any gamers.  There were no game shops in Bangkok at that time.  Then I met a guy at a language class in 2015.  We were chatting and I asked him what he did for fun.  He said he played games.  I asked him “what type?”  He said “I wouldn’t know.”  I said “Try me.”  A game called warhammer.  I was all in.  Apparently a new store opened in 2012 in Bangkok.

This got me back into gaming.  I got into miniatures and started watching all the hobby content creators on youtube.  Now this is my full time hobby and I love it.  I recently moved to Chiang Mai in Northern Thailand. This has a much bigger gaming scene than Samui.  I have my own gaming space and I get to paint all the time.